SAS Update after day one [Archive]

Nissanclay

08-12-2007, 11:13 PM

:bannana: :bannana: :bannana: :bannana: :bannana: :bannana: :bannana: :bannana: :bannana: :bannana: :bannana: :bannana: :bannana: :bannana:

Holy crap I am beat. we worked for 13hrs straight today and it was hot!

Any way, First off, I am officially SAS'd, I just can't stop, I'll explain in a sec. I got the front all done. Drove it around the block nothing fell off. So I figure that to be a pretty good sign. I plan to get the rear done tomorrow. I wont get the ubolt flip done but I'll get blocks and shackels on tomorrow so I can get my 35's on.

Second, as many of you know, the Calmini kit is not bolt on. We had to do some grinding and reaming(sp?) to some parts but we got it all on. :grind:

Third, I need a damn adapter for the front drive shaft.

Fourth, I don't know what the coil overs should look like. I don't know where the metal spinner with the two allens go and where the top nuts should be. Help please.

Ok, so about the whole stopping thing. The truck actually stops, but once the truck comes to a stop, the pedal will drop to the floor. I bought new calipers, but I'm going to get new ones (again) just incase I got one that was faulty.

I have a few pics but don't feel like dealing with that now, I'm tired and covered in dirt, be patient.

bogof

08-12-2007, 11:34 PM

Nice! gongrats on the SAS.

ChefTyler

08-12-2007, 11:42 PM

That was a quick SAS, I'll tell ya what, glad I could lend a hand, Clay!

Nissanclay

08-12-2007, 11:43 PM

Pre runner style, I like it! :crazy:
http://pics.montypics.com/nissanclay/2007-08-12/1186979875_dsc00422.jpg

On the floor where it belongs
http://pics.montypics.com/nissanclay/2007-08-12/1186979929_dsc00418.jpg

Where the IFS use to call home
http://pics.montypics.com/nissanclay/2007-08-12/1186979954_dsc00419.jpg

Plasma!
http://pics.montypics.com/nissanclay/2007-08-12/1186979978_dsc00420.jpg

NK2007

08-12-2007, 11:59 PM

so, before you rid yourself of the ifs, mind if i take it? it looks like it will be a while before i have a chance to get sas'ed, but id love to be 4x4...

theking

08-13-2007, 01:00 AM

Awesome! We'll be doing a SOA SAS soon on a Fronty like yours soon. We need some flex pics with those 35's.

tmorgan4

08-13-2007, 05:43 AM

Awesome....Looking forward to seeing it on those 35s here soon. Sorry I didn't have time to take the rim you didn't want off the spare!!!

ChefTyler

08-13-2007, 07:29 AM

When were you takin' pics, Clay? How did I miss that? Lookin good, buddy!

DamnHippie

08-13-2007, 08:38 AM

Hey, that's great progress for one day! Sorry I wasn't there to help, but I had committed to John a few weeks back to help him lift his jeep this weekend, and I had a gut feeling we might be cleaning up a few loose ends on that project on Sunday (which was exactly how it worked out).

On the brakes... that could be a sign of just some more air in the lines that needs to be bled out, but there are other things that can lead to that symptom. I've been fighting that exact problem myself ever since my engine swap. In my case, along with the foot to the floor after the stop I also had a really soft-feeling pedal, and a couple times when I needed to make a hard emergency-like stop my foot hit the floor and I felt like I needed a bit more pedal to really stop quickly enough.

One thing that can give that symptom is a bypass leak in the master cylinder. Brake fluid flows past a bad seal in the piston, so you never loose fluid onto the ground, but in all other respects it's just like having a fluid leak. That's a pretty rare thing though, unless you got dirt into the reservoir and it scratched up the walls of the cylinder.

I just a few days ago got my problem fixed. It turned out to be the vacuum booster. I had worked on or replaced just about everything else in the system, it was the only thing I had left to try (and I had a spare laying around). That isn't a usual sign of a booster problem, but in my case as soon as I had the booster unbolted from the firewall I knew I had found it: it rattled. It isn't supposed to rattle.

elementalvoid

08-13-2007, 09:19 AM

Lookin' good! I'm always amazed at quickly you guys get this stuff done, expecially with all the :beermug:

Nissanclay

08-13-2007, 10:22 AM

Thanks guys.

Tyler, I only took pics once, so you were probably outside or something.

I'm going to try to bleed the breaks a few more times then I'm going to start changing things.

NissanNut

08-13-2007, 11:32 AM

Sounds like air in the lines as mentioned before.

Great job!!!

I just installed speedbleeders in my front calipers. My pathy brakes feel great! But I have discs out back.

Only $7 each on ebay.

You are purchasing a single Speed Bleeder not a pair. The item number is SB1015.

The Thread Pitch is M10 x 1.5. The Length is 1.35 inches or 34.44 mm.

tmorgan4

08-13-2007, 02:21 PM

One of those vaccum bleeders makes things a LOT easier too.

cameron_garrison

08-14-2007, 09:14 PM

looking good what 35s are you going to be running

Nissanclay

08-14-2007, 10:53 PM

looking good what 35s are you going to be running

Xterrain

Update,

Blead the lines a bunch on monday. Today I changed the calipers and its still doing it. We're stumped. Maybe there is something wrong with the new break lines? Anybody have the spec on them so I can order a new set without going through Calmini?

DamnHippie

08-15-2007, 08:28 AM

Is there any way you could have gotten air into the master cylinder during the axle work? Like did you let so much fluid out that the reservoir emptied completely? If so, you probably need to bench-bleed the master cylinder.

Does it stop okay in general, and your foot only sinks to the floor after you've come to a complete stop? Or does it feel like the pedal is too soft from the start? If the latter, then your problem might be an undersized master cylinder for the (presumably) bigger pistons you now have on your front axle. A bigger master cylinder would fix that... some guys adapt one from a bigger truck like an old chevy 3/4 ton or something. I think Allen did something along those lines.

Nissanclay

08-15-2007, 11:02 AM

Ian, we tied up the breaklines to try and keep all the fluid from draining out but when we it finally came time to put the new lines on, not much fluid came out the hard line. So yeah, we pretty much drained the master. We will have to try bleeding the master.

Yes the truck stops just fine. In fact it stops better then I ecpected. Its after I stop that the peadal sinks to the floor.

Packman5280

08-15-2007, 11:08 AM

do you lose brake pressure when it does this, or does the truck stay stopped and the pedal just drops?

Nissanclay

08-15-2007, 11:26 AM

do you lose brake pressure when it does this, or does the truck stay stopped and the pedal just drops?

Haven't put it on a hill to see. Its all been flat street.

NissanNut

08-15-2007, 12:29 PM

Ive never bench bleed a Nissan master cylinder. I left mine disconnected for a few months. Bleed at the calipers only. No issues. You will notice a different pedal feel with the bigger calipers. I upgrade to rear discs on both of mine and the bias greatly improved.

I might try a titan MC one day.

Packman5280

08-15-2007, 02:00 PM

mechanic buddy of mine says master cyl is bad.

DamnHippie

08-15-2007, 02:04 PM

Yeah, that bypass leak in the master cylinder was my first suspicion from that symptom, except for one thing: It worked fine a few days ago, now it's broken. What are the odds it developed a leak at the same time as all the other work?

Clay, I have a spare master cylinder laying around if you want to try swapping them just to test the theory.

Packman5280

08-15-2007, 02:14 PM

if you aren't careful when you do calipers you can force fluid back in to the MC and damage it internally. some bit of rust or other debris could have gotten into it the wrong way and damaged it.

Nissanclay

08-15-2007, 05:31 PM

Ian, I might take you up on that. Ryan did mention that might be it and said Nissan Masters were only like $12 at auto zone so I might check that out to. Also, one thing we are going to try is a check valve. My dad installs them on hotrods when he does a dist break conversion. Basically, the valve prevents fluid from flowing back into the master cylindar and help cut down on excessive break pedal travel. Even if thes is not the issue it should help make the pedal a little stuffer. We already have the valve and it take about 10min to install on the line.

We're slowly eliminating things so its getting closer. Thanks for the help everyone. :)

Nissanclay

08-15-2007, 05:55 PM

I think Ryan may have been quoting a price for a HB or Pathy. I just did some calling and auto zone does not have a Master available and Advance Auto Parts wants 86 bux for it. Ian, how much do you want for you spare? I'll give it back whenever I get around to doing a Chevy Master upgrade.

DamnHippie

08-16-2007, 08:25 AM

It's nice to hear that AZ updated their computers. When I tried to buy a master cylinder there they gave me two different ones that were wrong. (They were probably right for a hardbody, but not a Frontier).

I paid $50 for my spare master at a junkyard then ended up not needing it. You can have it for that, and then if you convert to a chebby or something I'll buy it back from you for the same price. (I like having spares around.)

BTW, when you do upgrade to a master from another truck, you probably need to add an external proportioning valve; that'll add $35-50 to the overall cost. The Nissan cylinders have a proportioning valve built in. Without one, your rear brakes may lock up before the fronts even begin to do anything, because the rear cylinders are so tiny.

Nissanclay

08-16-2007, 10:56 PM

We are going to try replacing the master, so I'm going Chebby. Picking up all the stuff tomorrow and it will go on Sunday. My plan all along was to eventually go with a Chevy Master I guess I'll just be doing it sooner then I thought. I'll try to take pics and do a write up and take pics but it should just be a bolt up type thing. Minus reflaring the lines, getting rid of the metric fittings and adding a adjustable preportioning valve.

Jeep07

08-16-2007, 11:20 PM

Chevy MC in a Nissan is a pretty easy ordeal. Just take a round file and file out the holes and it will bolt up. However on my old rig I had to Completley remove the adjusting screw on the booster to get it to work right. I think I got a metric to standard fitting at advance auto and just hooked the lines up. I did remove the ABS block as it was useless since all the sensors were gone.

Sas looks good :)

ChefTyler

08-16-2007, 11:26 PM

Clay, it's not going to be bolt in, something to do with the way the pedal attaches to the plunger (wrong word, sue me) on the MC, give Al a shout tomorrow...crap he's out until Saturday I think...and ask him about it, Ryan would also know as he and Al have talked about it to no end.

Nissanclay

08-16-2007, 11:43 PM

Don't say that Tyler, N4W made it sound so easy.

The pedal doesn't attach to the MC though, it connects to the break booster. I think the issue is that there is not enough adjustment but I read you ust need to add a spacer or some washers. I was hoping to talk to Al but I know he's out. We might figure this out on our own.

Jeep07 we already bypassed the ABS it was one of the things we did to try and fix it before the master.

ChefTyler

08-17-2007, 07:33 AM

Clay, that sounds about right, I know it gave Al some shit, so just budget some more time for it.

DamnHippie

08-17-2007, 08:37 AM

If you need more pedal into the booster, some Frontiers have a quarter-inch thick spacer between the booster and the firewall that you can remove to get the pedal to push that much further into the booster. It's a major pain in the butt to get the booster in and out, so don't go there unless you're completely out of adjustment at the input shaft screw where it attaches to the pedal.

Nissanclay

08-19-2007, 04:38 PM

Its alive!!!!!!!! Put the chevy master on and it breaks like a champ! Thanks Al for the little cutting trick. I ended up using a chrome one that my Dad had for the Chevelle he is building, so I ended up with some bling under the hood. The holes were already opened up so there was not modification needed. I'll take some pics of it and the truck tomorrow after I get the 35's on. I'm going to go visit Al and get everything adjust correctly.

ChefTyler

08-19-2007, 05:43 PM

Nice! Glad to hear it Clay!

tbecktold

08-21-2007, 07:32 PM

I'll take some pics of it and the truck tomorrow after I get the 35's on

Pics?

CurleyMan

08-21-2007, 08:29 PM

Wow good job man i can't wait to wheel with ya....

Nissanclay

08-21-2007, 09:59 PM

Sorry no pics, haven't had the chance or found a place to flex it out yet. I at least want a poster flex shot instead of being like Jamie and taking a picture of it on flat dirt. :)

Packman5280

08-21-2007, 10:59 PM

Nissanclay

08-21-2007, 11:15 PM

yeah make sure to shine it up first, nice and clean, like a good little mall crawler. then you can get some of those stickers that look like mud but is actually just a decal. then you'll be cool, i promise.

It is due for a wax job, thatnks for the reminder. I don't want the mud stickers to damage my paint so I'll just stick the I ran through a puddle in the parking look. :roflmao:

Nissanclay

08-22-2007, 08:13 PM

I can't find my digital camer right now so you're stuck with some lower quality pics. But as proised here are a few. I still have to take some of the master cylinder but here are some of the truck at least.

I'm going to wait to put my 35's on until I double shear my track bar mount. I should have that done in the next week or so.

I still need to make a new rear x-member for the shocks, do a u-bolt flip, add the AAL's got from AL, get the adapter for my front driveshaft, cut the calmini bumper skid plate to fill the hole at the front and make sure all my lines are long enough. Then I'm off and running.

What litte cars see
http://pics.montypics.com/nissanclay/2007-08-22/1187830980_dsc00429.jpg

Gone Moab orange
http://pics.montypics.com/nissanclay/2007-08-22/1187831292_dsc00432.jpg

Track bar gusset
http://pics.montypics.com/nissanclay/2007-08-22/1187831337_dsc00433.jpg

Mall crawlin flex shots
http://pics.montypics.com/nissanclay/2007-08-22/1187831365_dsc00434.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/nissanclay/2007-08-22/1187831419_dsc00437.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/nissanclay/2007-08-22/1187831396_dsc00436.jpg

itsme1738

08-22-2007, 08:17 PM

nice clay

ChefTyler

08-22-2007, 10:42 PM

That's hot, Clay.

NissanNut

08-23-2007, 08:07 AM

I like the blacked out look. Looks nice! Welcome to the SAS party.

http://nissannut.com/smilies/big_party.gif

Now we just need to work on Ryan.:rolleyes:

markrobinson

08-30-2007, 07:21 PM

Lookin' good Clay.

Nissanclay

08-30-2007, 07:41 PM

Thanks, I have some more pics of the truck with 35's on and the master cylinder that I'll post up wen I get home.

Mark, to answer you PM my master failed sometime during the swap. It didn't work after we bled the breaks.

oleblue

08-30-2007, 07:49 PM

Is that a DD?

Only asking because those heim Joints don't work to well for a daily driver. They do wear quick with all the dirt and water and other junk that get on them and then wear the inner teflon.

Nissanclay

08-30-2007, 09:29 PM

Yeah it is a DD. Looking into a second vehicle for a DD just not sure when and what.

I'm aware of the heim join stuff. Kev I think got a year out of his with a alot of driving, most in the snow.

oleblue

08-30-2007, 09:58 PM

Right o then.

I just know a few people that put them on and got pissed when they wore out fast. But as long as you are aware, :cool:

I have them on my CJ, love them so far, but the CJ is trail only. Well mostly. I do drive it around town once in a while because I don't get out all that much and need to keep the jeep running.

itsme1738

04-20-2008, 11:31 AM

CLAY what did u cut on the master ?..and do u know if
its the same for a 88 pathy....and what year mc? 77 ish?

Nissanclay

04-20-2008, 11:54 AM

Wow, old thread.

When you take the stock master off there should be a bolt with a long bullet type head. I cut the entire bullet off so it loosks like a normal bolt. You need some vise grips to hold the bolt shaft from turning. A 77ish chevy master shoudl work. Really any of them will. Mine is for a hot rod application. My dad had one that he wasn't using.