"Budget Boost"-ing a WD21 ('88 Specifically)

[coaz4x4]

I'd like to get 2-3" mainly to replace shocks/springs etc. because the used one i got is creaky like an old woman!

Here's what I see:
$665-715 Automotive Customizers (1.5 - 3")
$750 Pure Nissan // Calmini (3")

Anything else to consider, or parts you would need to buy in addition to a kit when lifting a vehicle like this 2-3"?

A SAS is not the direction I want to go... and is way too much money... so it's ruled out... This is mainly a DD that I want to get a lil higher off the ground.

Thanks for the :twocents: !!

[Alpine Spirit]

Anytime you lift a Nissan you HAVE to keep steering in mind sooner rather than later. The centerlinks start to take more abuse and WILL wear out.

I like the AC stuff since it has zerks arlready installed in the UCAs. But either lift will be fine it the steering I would not use the Calmini on.

[coaz4x4]

I like the AC stuff since it has zerks arlready installed in the UCAs. But either lift will be fine it the steering I would not use the Calmini on.

Could that be why my steering in the last 15ish% of either end is creaky as hell??

The guys over at NPORA are telling me about ZJ coils in the rear, cranking up the "t-bar" (I have noooo idea what that is) getting new UCA's for the front and shocks all around could get me 2" for under $500 while being quasi-sound

[bogof]

t-bar= torsion bar.

On a side note if you didn't already know a t-bar crank will not allow for more travel. You still have the same travel between the bumpstops. The only way to gain more travel is to get some low profile bumpstops, but I've heard that the low profile bumpstops can mess up your CVs (don't take my word for it).

New UCAs (upper controll arms) will not allow for more travel either. It only allows for a proper allignment.

I have the calmini UCAs and they seem to be bulletproof. To bad I have the old ones that came without the zerk fittings so my UCAs squeak all the time (anyone at GONE could prob hear a a mile away).

Hope that helped.

[coaz4x4]

Here's what I've been reading about it on NPORA
http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showtopic=15838&pid=259414&st=0&#entry259414

I'm not going as much for the travel as the clearance. I hear ya about the UCA's giving alignment only, but I'd like my tires to wear evenly!

The question about the steering still does linger... it's pretty darn creaky when cranked over.

[ChefTyler]

coaz4x4, your choice of UCAs has nothing to do with your steering being creaky. Without any more details, I'd say you're getting Power Steering pump noise, or your steering box is angry. Give us details :D

[coaz4x4]

Anytime you lift a Nissan you HAVE to keep steering in mind sooner rather than later. The centerlinks start to take more abuse and WILL wear out.

I am just pondering if my center-links are worn...

Only happens when I'm in the last 10ish% in terms of cranking the wheel over and when I'm in motion.

That's sort of a different question from the lift and the UCA's though. As I understand it, If I "crank the t-bar" and insall some longer socks in the front, I can gain a couple of inches of lift, with the new UCA's maintaining proper alignment of the tires so they're not cambered at all. A set of ZJ coils will achieve a similar level of lift in the back with the longer travel shocks. I also understand that this will not provide more articulation though because of the bumpstops... but that's not really a concern of mine right now.

[Alpine Spirit]

I am just pondering if my center-links are worn...

Only happens when I'm in the last 10ish% in terms of cranking the wheel over and when I'm in motion.


That sounds like your steering stops need to be greased or maybe even replaced if it rubbed through. Crawl under and look for a bolt that contact when you steer hard on the back of the wheel there should be a tad of grease on there to keep it from grinding at the extremes of a turn.

[Alpine Spirit]

To test loose steering put the front on Jack Stands and then crawl under there and start pushing the tire in ALL directions. If you have anything worn it the tire will move and a joint will move somewhere without the actual steering moving. Depending on the joint this will tell what if any parts are worn. And you have to move both tires on the front.