steering up grades

[Green Machine]

So I was planning on going solid when i got my bonus in december. But needless to say my bonus came through with half the price expected. I need to up grade steering by this season. With SLR no longer what is the best system, or am I better of going with just heavy duty tie rod adjusters and beefing up my idler arm any recomendations?

[dvdswan]

I just purchased a Calmini set up, unfortunately they just told me they are on back order now for a couple of weeks.

[DamnHippie]

It's not the idler arm and tie rods that are a problem with IFS steering. They break, but as a symptom, not a cause, of the problem. The real problem is the centerlink attachment points to the pitman and idler arms. They're attached in single-shear with weak bearings. The bearings wear out, the centerlink begins moving up and down instead of side to side, which bends the idler arm and allows the tie rod ends to contact the frame, at which point the tie rod adjusters snap because the frame is stronger.

With SLR and L&P out of business, the only current source of stronger centerlinks is a guy on another forum whose screen name is Hoohah. He once posted a picture of his work, and it looked a bit amateurish to me (I can weld nicer looking beads than he posted, and I haven't been welding that long). Still, what he pictured looked stronger than stock parts for sure.

Oh yeah, there's Calmini. There were a whole lot of problems with their steering upgrades at first, but maybe the problems have been worked out over time. I doubt they've changed their attitude about customer service, though. They'll tell you the parts will ship in 2 weeks, and 3-4 months later you'll still be wondering where your stuff is. And if you call to check, they'll curse at you (and, I suspect, move you to the end of the list).


Picking up a used L&P or SLR system from someone doing a SAS is the best option of all, if you can find one.

[punkrockdrummerx]

Don't forget the Total Chaos steering system (King Kong System on AC) That has heim tie-rods and everything you need. Expensive but nice as well. There is a guy on Xterrafirma.com that got rid of his SLR steering for the TC steering. Haven't heard anything on how it is though. I wanna say his SN is AlliedAcid.

[DamnHippie]

Doesn't the TC system make your front tires stick out like 6 inches or more (and get you more travel in the process)? That wouldn't be good for a daily driver rig. Or do they have a steering option that works with stock control arms?

[Nissanclay]

Doesn't the TC system make your front tires stick out like 6 inches or more (and get you more travel in the process)? That wouldn't be good for a daily driver rig. Or do they have a steering option that works with stock control arms?

They have a system for both stock control arms and one for their long travel suspension kit.

[Green Machine]

I dig the fact of heim joint tie rods but Not the price. 1,000 bucks all said and done is a little much, Will the AC steering work with calmini upper control arms.

[punkrockdrummerx]

1000is about what you would expect to spend with SLR also. The steering has nothing to do with control arms. I would look into the Hoohaa centerlink and then probally the AC TRA's.

[Royce Danford]

HOOHAA is offering modified centerlinks for all Nissan trucks. Kits include a centerlink which has been modified with new machined sleeves and press fit teflon lined spherical bearings designed to operate under tens of thousands of pounds of force. Kits also include all necessary hardware. You will need to drill out your pitman arm and idler arm holes to 5/8".

Ordering instructions:

I charge $225 with a $100 core fee. You can send in your stock CL and not have to deal with the core fee. If you pay the core fee you have 45 days to return the core to receive a refund.

Shipping to the lower 48 is free.

I accept paypal to the following address: rbcscapegoat@yahoo.com Please include an extra 3% if you use paypal to cover their seller fees.

I also accept check or MO. I will wait for the check to clear before sending the link.

I don't offer multiple "stages" of kits. I have never seen evidence that this is necessary. In fact, everything I have seen and experiences points to the TREs being the weak point. The TREs will act as a fuse and will break/bend WAY before you run into the kind of forces that require double sheer pitmans and idlers. I DO, however, recommend a simple idler arm brace if you plan to wheel or otherwise abuse your truck. I don't make idler arm braces.

I offer Hardbody, Pathfinder, Xterra and Frontier CLs. Give me a hollar at rbcscapegoat@yahoo.com if you are interested.

My centerlinks come shipped with all necessary hardware, including two grade 8 bolts drilled for cotter pins, two snazzy castle nuts, four washers, and two cotter pins. All hardware is heavy duty nickel or zinc plated stuff.

Installation instructions:
Remove your old centerlink
Step 1: Remove the four cotter pins securing the four 19mm castle nuts.
Step 2: Using a 19mm socket remove the four castle nuts.
Step 3: Use either a BFH or a tie rod end puller to pop loose the four ball joint studs. At this point the centerlink should be loose from both the idler arm and the pitman arm, and both tie rod ends should be out of the centerlink.
Step 4: Once the centerlink is removed please toss it back in the box, tape it up, and ship it back to me so I can make one for the next guy!
Drill the Idler and Pitman
Step 1: Decide how you want to proceed. You have a few options. You can either do it yourself or have it drilled at a machine shop for a case of beer or send it to me and I'll drill it out and ship it back to you for free.
Step 2: If you decide to do it yourself you can drill the idler and pitman arm holes using a hand drill with the arms still on the vehicle (not recommended), or you can pull them off and do it in a drill press or a vise (I recommend doing this). 5/8" drill bits are available from hardware stores and big box retailers like Northern Tool or Tractor Supply. You are enlarging the stock tapered hole to 5/8" to receive the new grade 8 bolts. This is a much more difficult task than drilling thinner steel with a smaller bit. With bits larger than 1/2" you really have to turn the bit slowly or you will overheat it and ruin it in no time. It's really best to pull off the arms and drill them out using a drill press at low RPM. If you just run the 5/8" bit through using a standard single speed 1/2" hand drill at full speed you WILL burn up your bit before you can drill both holes. If you aren't comfortable doing this then plan on pulling the arms and taking them to the local machine shop or mechanic.
Install the new centerlink
Step 1: If you removed the pitman and idler arms, replace them now.
Step 2: Place the new centerlink ends above the idler and pitman arms and drop both bolts down through one washer each and through the centerlink end and the idler and pitman holes.
Step 3: Slide the remaining two washers over the bolts and tighten the castle nuts. You will need to torque these castle nuts down to 100 ft. lbs.
Step 4: IMPORTANT insert the cotter pins through the castle nut slots and through the 1/8" hole which is predrilled through the bolt, and then bend the long part of the cotter pin back over the end of the bolt, to ensure that the centerlink bolts cannot loosen.
Step 5: Insert the tie rod ends into the centerlink through the bottom, torque them down, and replace their cotter pins. If the taper is reversed and they will not insert from the bottom, flip the centerlink over.
Congratulations, you are finished. Take the vehicle in for an alignment and enjoy!

[Neight]

Anyone have any pictures of "Hoohaa"s work or a website or some feedback? I know some people looking to up grade their steering.

[JeffW]

Anyone have any pictures of "Hoohaa"s work or a website or some feedback? I know some people looking to up grade their steering.

There's tons of positive feedback and pictures on XOC and NPORA forums.