PDA

View Full Version : Positive Battery Cable fuse.


l1r
05-08-2008, 02:09 PM
Ok, so here's the deal...
In 2nd gen xterra's (and I don't know if the same applies for 1st gen) there is a fuse that sits right on the positive battery connector and blows when you get in an accident. It cuts power to headlight, engine and possibly a few other things.
After I wrecked my X, I never replaced that fuse - just a little soldering to keep it together.
Now the story:
Two days ago I walk out of the office, in a hurry (as always), jump into my X and turn the key. Dead silence. I'm like 'what the f!?'. After about 30 seconds problem has been identified - the soldering fell apart and the connection was lost, hence engine can't start. No problem - a little screwdriver to shorten the loose connection, engine started and I'm on my way.
4 hours later, in downtown jungle (17th and Larimer), same deal. Okay, my little screwdriver trick starts the engine, but now as soon as I remove the screwdriver, engine dies. After about half hour of work an emergency wiring harness has been made (personal pride - made out of my molex-to-sata cable, my first brake-n-fix on the road :)). Anyways that got me home that night.
Spent about half hour that night soldering a heavy-er piece of copper plate to where the fuse used to be. Got it to work. Great!
Today I decide to call friendly local stealership to see how much the fuse replacement runs at. They quote me $100, since I have to buy an entire positive battery cable.
Now do I have to replace it with another fuse, or will I be ok driving as I am (with a bypass harness)? Guy told me if something shortens, I can fry something else, and that will be a bigger PITA...

Packman5280
05-08-2008, 02:25 PM
made out of my molex-to-sata cable

nice :thumbsup:

DamnHippie
05-08-2008, 03:02 PM
Personally I like the idea of a main fuse right at the battery terminal, but nissan didn't think that was necessary until very recently, so I think you can consider it optional. If you get into an accident it's nice to avoid having your battery suddenly dump 800+ amps to ground because the mangled metal from the wreckage shorted the starter cable or something else that's able to carry a ton of current.

Such a fuse generally only protects the wiring running to the starter, the alternator, and the short piece of wire that goes to the main fuse-and-relay box in the engine compartment. Any short downstream of that box will blow the main fuse in that box or one of the smaller fuses in that box. (Remember that fuses always protect wiring, not the devices at the ends of the wires, so that whole colateral damage argument is sort of a non-issue.)

Soldering may not be a good long-term solution because the starter current may be enough to heat the solder significantly, and over time the solder joint will fail. But you should be able to cook something up for less than a full $100 nissan cable replacement. If there's ever a winch in your future you'll be putting a really big fuse (like 500 amp) right on the battery terminal anyway, so you could invest $35 or so to do that now. I like these fuses for that application: http://www.donrowe.com/accessories/fuse_anl.html

l1r
05-08-2008, 03:09 PM
DamnHippie
Thanks a lot. That makes sense. Soldering was more of a temporary fix, but I can a) get a 500 Amp fuse, as you suggested, b) run a bypass from battery positive terminal to the cable right pass the fuse. There are places to connect it safely on both ends. I think I will consider that. Maybe run to Autozone and see what fuses they have to offer. Winch was a plan down the road at some point in time, so if I have to do it then, I might as well do it now.
Oh and c) Congrat's on your 1000's post! :)
Packman5280
I know. for one that was the geekiest thing I've done in a while and for two - it was a great fix with available materials which made me proud of myself :)

Packman5280
05-08-2008, 03:31 PM
my 94 pathfinder has fusible links right at the + connector at the battery. kind of annoying, makes it hard to replace your stock + battery cable or terminal because you have to keep the fusible links and the little bracket they connect to.

Robust57
05-09-2008, 11:27 AM
Nice shim, I dig that.

I hate the battery setup in the second gens.

l1r
05-20-2008, 10:28 AM
Well as Ian predicted my soldering job took shit yesterday right as I was turning onto my street. It was kinda scary when power steering and brakes went off and I suddenly realized how much those helped in everyday life, right as I was heading for my neighbor's fence. Well it all worked out, I stopped right by the curb. I went back to my molex cable fix, got it home and left it on a driveway as I drove my dad's POS subaru today. That thing sucks!
On to the subject:
So now I'm gonna get that kit from Ian's suggested site and whenever it gets here replace it. Do any of you know if Autozone or any local stores carry them? I'd hate to wait for a week to get my X back...
Also - how many amps do I need? Air compressor gets purchased and installed in the next 2 weeks (MF-1050, 30 Amp draw) and possibly a winch in the next 2-3 years. I was thinking 300...
Thoughts, suggestions?

DamnHippie
05-20-2008, 10:57 AM
The biggest fuse I could find at any local parts store was 150 amp, and I couldn't find a holder for it. For a winch in your future I'd say you need 400 - 500 amps, depending on the winch.

No need to wait, I've got what you need sitting around. I ordered extras from donrowe last time for situations just like this; I should have a fuse holder and a 500 amp fuse. What I may not have laying around is a spare 500 fuse. I think fuse, holder, and shipping all add up to $40. I've still got the invoice laying around at home, so I can double-check that.

If you want to go cheap for now and upgrade when you do get a winch eventually, I have a really cheesy plastic fuse holder that cost $5 and a 200 amp fuse that was another $5 or so. They're what I was using before I got a winch.

l1r
05-20-2008, 11:32 AM
Nice. I actually went ahead and ordered 300 Amp kit from them just now (wanted to be sure I get it by Friday, or else we're on for a 3 day weekend). Looked to me like fuses are interchangeable, so I put 300 Amp in that holder now, but then should be able to take it out and put 500 in (when I'm ready for a winch). Yeah, I paid like $32 for 300 with shipping. 500 was $10 more... If I don't get mine by Friday, maybe I'll borrow yours, put it on, and when mine gets here I'll give you a brand new holder and your 500 Amp fuse back. Will that be ok?

DamnHippie
05-20-2008, 11:51 AM
Yeah, that was actually kind of my plan -- keep an extra around, and whoever needs one can have it right away and can order me a replacement.

Can you get the X running enough to get it over to my place? I've got other stuff that will be handy for installing it -- heavy gauge cable, ring terminals, etc. I may go wheeling on Friday, but other than that I should have late afternoons and evenings free all this week.

l1r
05-20-2008, 12:16 PM
Cool. I've got a long day today (won't end until 8-9 p.m.), so maybe tomorrow or Thursday - whichever works best for you.
X is running, it's just that I'm scared for something to happen on a highway... It can get pretty ugly.
But I'll drive X to work and can stop by your place after. I think you're pretty close to my office - I'm on US 6 and Garrison. I'll run to Harbor Freight and pick up some ring terminals myself - I might need them for other things later on - lights, compressor...
Thanks Ian.

DamnHippie
05-20-2008, 03:59 PM
HF has little ring terminals, good for 12ga wiring for compressors and stuff. For the big battery-to-fuse type connections you need bigger ones (I've got 0-gauge stuff).

I'm near 38th & Sheridan, so not too far from 6th & Garrison at all.

Creek
05-27-2008, 06:56 PM
here's the part #24380-89914 for the entire fuse block thingy. Not bad at all...only $31. I had to replace mine a while back

l1r
05-27-2008, 09:16 PM
here's the part #24380-89914 for the entire fuse block thingy. Not bad at all...only $31. I had to replace mine a while back

Strange... dude at a stealership wanted $93... Oh well - I got the kit Ian recommended above, it cost me $32 shipped. Now thanks to Ian, who helped me put it in last week, I have a 300 Amp fuse sitting there. Works good I guess - it lets the current through. Still have some temp. wiring around, but as much as we tightened it, I don't think it's going anywhere.

by the way: Ian - check your PM :)

DamnHippie
05-28-2008, 07:16 AM
I've read my PMs, just haven't answered them yet. :p

I was gonna mention that it might be nice to take a picture of how we mounted that fuse holder -- it might help other 2nd-gen owners who need ideas on how to mount a big fuse for a winch. It's pretty cool that the 2nd-gen had that bracket right next to the battery that we could add a mounting plate to.