Post-PML T-Bar Sagging

[GarrettE]

I have noticed in the last week or so that my front end is really starting to sag due to the torsion bars settling in. I decided today that I was going to measure the fender heighth difference, front to rear I have almost a 2" difference (rear is 2" higher than the front).

I have read on XOC that it should be about 3/4" difference. Is this right? My X definitely looks like it is doing a nose dive right now, and I want to level it out.

I also measured the bumpstop clearance in the front, and the bumpstop on the LCA has about 1.25" of clearance. Can I crank the t-bars until this distance is 1/2"-3/4" to level the X out some?

I already got an alignment, and my X was barely out of a alignment. It was 1/2 a degree off on camber, and 1/16th of a degree off in toe-in.

If I count the turns of the torsion bar adjustment bolts, and do both sides the same amount, I shouldn't have any problems, should I?

My main reason for doing this is that if the front end is raised 3/4-1" higher, the tires wont rub at all. Where it sits now, it is already starting to bend the lower part of my fender up, and more into harms way.

I will take some pictures later tonight of the clearance issues with the fender, as well as the front bumpstops.
Suggestions?

[Alpine Spirit]

You can crank till its about 1/2" of clearance you can also switch to Ultra low bump stops to make sure you have the correct clearance.

Oh and it shoul not mess with your alignment since it was done at correct ride heighth. You are just returning it to the correct angles everything was set atl.

[ChefTyler]

Easiest way to make sure you don't fark your alignment is to measure from the top of a tire lug (while centered vertically) to the bottom of the fender well (at correct ride height) and then re-crank when need be to the same height and it won't destroy your alignment.

That's directions from Al :D

[JeffW]

The one thing we can agree on is that any T-bar cranking will affect alignment. Even a toe-in of a small fraction of a degree will wear tires out and hurt highway mileage. I, for one, won't risk my tires over the price of an alignment. I have a simple rule. After cranking, I drive for a week to let it "settle". Then I re-measure ride height. If it looks good, I get an alignment. If not, I go back to the cranking step and repeat.

[Allen Cox]

If you crank it back up to where it was before, and where it was previously aligned, then you'll be OK. Nobodies alignment is perfect all the time. Parts wear, bumps happen, so on and so forth.

Problem might be though that you have to reindex the t-bars. If that happens, then you're in for a little more work than you might bargain for. Just don't overstress the torsion bar adjusting bolts. Remember, it's better to take the weight off of the front suspension when doing the adjustment. Less stress on the bolts that way.

[GarrettE]

Yea, I definitely will be taking the weight off the front end almost completely, and then crank em and let it back down to measure.

I will be doing all this in the early morning tomorrow as well as installing my steering stabilizer and new bilsteins (probably crank the tbars first, then install everything else).

Hopefully it will go smoothly and I wont have any problems, or have to reindex em.