HOW TO-Volant install 00-04 X, 99-04 Fronty

[soccerbrace]

Alright, so I thought I would do a write up on how to install the Volant intake

I will start off with:

necessary tools

10mm socket and/or nut driver
8mm socket or nut driver
(preferably short) large Phillips screwdriver
(preferably short) small Phillips screwdriver
6" extension
5/16 socket or nut driver
cutting pliers
small vice grips or pliers
wire strippers/crimpers
needlenose pliers

recommended tools
drill with small Phillips bit

What they did not include but you should get:
Small silicone hose about 3' to be safe (read on)
1 small zip tie ^^^
about 6" of blue 18AWG blue wire
about 6" of blue 18AWG orange wire
2 butt connectors
2-2" sections of heat shrink
6" or 5/16 plastic conduit.
1 1/4" rubber washer
1 5/16" rubber washer
1 1/4" x 1 1/4" bolt
1 5/16" x 1 1/4" bolt
1 1/4" flat washer
1 5/16" flat washer
1 1/4" wing nut
1 5/16" wing nut
black RTV silicone
MAF sensor cleaner
Quick Drying elecrtrical connector cleaner
Di-electric grease

Alright, we will start off removing the old intake:

Here
(circled) is the MAF sensor. Pull it with a couple of philipps head screws.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/Xterra007.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6422.jpg

Pull it out and turn it upside down to unplug the brown plug.

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6440.jpg

Spray it with the QD cleaner

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6433.jpg

Bring the MAF inside! It is a very expensive fragile part! Here are a few pics
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6424.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6425.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6426.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6427.jpg

spray where it meets with the plug with QD electrical spray, and blow it dry

Then spray the MAF element with MAF sensor cleaner, and put some Di-electric grease on the connector

Immediately install the MAF on the Volant tube.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6408.jpg

put it in the hole
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6436.jpg

Volant provides 2 screws. Start slowly, and get one screw started while pushing down with the drill. Do not go in all the way

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6438.jpg
Repeat for the other side.

SNUG IT DOWN WITH A SCREWDRIVER!!!! IF NOT, YOU COULD CRACK THE MAF SENSOR, OR STRIP THE PLASTIC TUBE!!!

Now remove your resonators.

You will see the term "T-Pipe" used quite frequently throughout this post. Here it is. It is located between the left front headlight and the air box.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul026.jpg
Start by popping your hood. This is what you will see. (duh) The circled area is where you will be working.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul002.jpg
Let's first remove the 3 resonators.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul042.jpg
From left to right, there is the baffle (located in between the inner and outer fender). In the center is the resonator attached to the main intake hose and mounted on the wheel well, and on the far right is the resonator mounted to the top of the radiator from the T-Pipe.
First, remove the resonator attached to the main intake hose. It is outlined in the picture below.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul004.jpg
We will start by loosening the hose clamp circled in yellow by using a Phillips-head screwdriver or an 8mm socket/nut driver. http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul003.jpg
Loosening the hose clamp:
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul007.jpg
Next we will LOOSEN the lower resonator screw. Use a 10mm wrench, or a nut driver, or a stubby screwdriver such as the one pictured here:
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul010.jpg
You will need to get to the screw in the following picture. It is located underneath the brake booster on the wheel well.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul009.jpg
This is a picture of the screw's location (after the entire resonator was removed) within a larger view of the engine.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul002-1.jpg
The screw and resonator should look like this once you have loosened the screw and freed the resonator.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul011.jpg
Next you will need to disconnect the two electrical plugs close to the inner fender to give you the working room you will need to remove the resonator. Don't forget to plug them back in when you are finished.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul013.jpg
There is a black plastic clip holding a zip-tied wire loom to the resonator. You will take a pair of needle-nose pliers to pinch the bottom of the clip and remove the wiring from the resonator as shown.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul015.jpg
Now, you will remove the remove the upper mounting screw for this resonator.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul008.jpg
Once this screw is removed, simply pull the resonator out of the engine compartment as shown below.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul014.jpg
Resonator removed. At this point, go ahead and reconnect those two electrical plugs that you almost forgot to remove.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul016.jpg
Make sure you also remove the hose clamp as shown below.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul017.jpg
THIS CONCLUDES THE REMOVAL OF THE FIRST RESONATOR.
Next we'll tackle the radiator-mounted resonator. It is outlined in yellow below. The inset on the bottom left is provided to give you an idea as to it's location within the larger context of the engine compartment.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul999.jpg

First, remove the screw that fastens the resonator to the radiator:
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul020.jpg
Next, simply pull the resonator (which is loosely connected to the "T-Pipe" at the other end) out of the "T-Pipe" and then out of the engine compartment.
Next, you will remove the T-Pipe. First, remove the T-Pipe from the air box as shown:
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul022.jpg
Before going any further, remove the air inlet temperature sensor plug and then remove the sensor itself from the T-Pipe. Once it is removed, you will see a blue-painted element. DO NOT TOUCH THE BLUE ELEMENT! Treat the sensor with care and lay it aside in a safe place. The sensor's location is pictured below.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul006.jpg

[soccerbrace]

Next, twist the circled opening on the T-Pipe (that you just removed from the air box) towards the sky so that you can see directly inside the T-Pipe from a bird's point of view. You s
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/CopyofintakemodwithPaul022-2.jpg
This next part is going to require a little bit of elbow grease on your part. Grasp the end of the T-Pipe farthest from the fender and pull towards the sky, then towards the fender so that you will twist the 90-degree bend in the T-pipe out of the inner fender wall as shown. The T-Pipe will not be inclined to cooperate. You're probably going to have to wrestle it out of the engine compartment.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul025.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul031.jpg
Next, you will remove the nut shown below. After it is removed, push the stud all the way through the inner fender wall so all that you see is hole. This nut attaches to the baffle that you will be removing in the next step. This is the easiest time to do this. I highly recommend a 3/8" driver with a 10mm deep socket for this task because of the limited space available to remove the nut. PUSH THIS STUD COMPLETELY THROUGH THE HOLE IN THE INNER FENDER WALL SO THAT IT FALLS INTO THE WHEEL WELL!
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul037.jpg
THIS CONCLUDES THE REMOVAL OF THE SECOND RESONATOR
Finally, you will remove the baffle, located in between the inner and outer fender walls. For reference, the baffle is shown below; however know that YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE FENDER FOR THIS JOB. This picture was taken during a different project is shown merely for reference.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/xterrastuff027-1.jpg
First, you will need to remove the four screws holding up the fender trim, as shown below. Use a stubby screwdriver for this
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul033.jpg
Now that the fender trim is removed, start pulling down and pushing in one the outer fender lining to create space.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul034.jpg
If the clips become completely detached, reattach them in the following manner
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul039.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul040.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul041.jpg

Pull down the outer fender liner, as shown below.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul036.jpg
Look up into the fender and make sure the front end of the baffle is detached from the inner fender wall. Reach up to the top of the baffle on the aft end and yank down. YANK ON IT!!!! Put your back into it. It is only held on with a stud to a rubber washer. You should see something resembling the picture below.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul035.jpg
Crank your wheels hard right.Once you have detached both ends of the baffle, and after much coaxing, your fender will give birth to a brand new baby baffle. simply slide it out of of the wheel well as shown below.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/intakemodwithPaul038.jpg
Now, reattach the fender lining and the fender trim. Alright! You are done!
YOU HAVE SUCCESSFULLY REMOVED ALL THREE INTAKE RESONATORS. CONGRATULATIONS!!!
Now it is time to remove the old air box, bracket, and intake hoses

Take your pliers or small vise grips and move both of the the tension clamps on left down the hose about 4" and pull the two hoses off

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6441.jpg

Next, use the 8mm socket or nut driver to remove the two hose clamps by the air box and by the throttle body.

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6445.jpg

Next, unclip your air box, and remove the vent line as shown. Remove it at both http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6446.jpg
SAVE THIS HOSE!!!!!

Remove the air filter.

Next, remove the 3 10mm bolts that hold the lower half or the air box.

They are located on the right, left and in front of the air box as shown. (Yes, I see the dirt in my intake;))
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6448.jpg

Remove your air box.

Next, remove this center bracket with 2 10mm bolts
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6452.jpg

Move the inlet air temperature sensor from underneath these two lines
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6455.jpg

to above it. It needs to reach the new location
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6456.jpg

These are the orange and blue wires that you need to add 6" of length to. Use the cutters to cut it, and then strip the wires. Either butt connect them, or solder them together and then heat shrink it. Next, wrap the conduit around it.

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6449.jpg

Alright, you are all done with prep in the engine compartment.

Next, take your Volant silicone hose and install it on the side opposite the MAF sensor

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6411.jpg
and install it on the side opposite the MAF sensor

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6412.jpg

Use the two smaller hose clamps (numbered 48)

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6409.jpg

Tighten them so they stay put but do not snug them down tightly
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6416.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6439.jpg

Next, take the remaining hose clamp and tighten it slightly so it does not go anywhere.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6421.jpg

Next, add the 2 pieces of trim to the air box
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6405.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6406.jpg

air box to throttle body side:
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6407.jpg

and repeat for other side.

Remove the air box lid with large phillips screwdriver:
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6401.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6403.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6404.jpg

Take note of those 2 holes, this is where you will install the two bolts, rubber washers,flat washers, and wing nuts

This is where you will be a little upset at Volant.......

Now, take the entire assembly, and head out to your truck.

Start with the air box.....

Alright...this was seriously a PITA!

Set the inlet air temp sensor aside, and the MAF plug too and make sure they are out of the way. Next, move the AC line forward a tad with some muscle, and then remove the hood open sensor.

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6460.jpg

Next, get your assembly of hardware, and install it. My pics shows 2 1/4" bolts, use one 1/4" and one 5/16". Remember to line the holes up!
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6457-1.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6459.jpg

See how the vent hose is too short also?
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6461.jpg

I went to the auto store to buy 3 feet of the new length. One side needs to have a small I.D. and the other has to have a larger I.D. (inner diameter) I bought 3', cut to length, and zip tied the smaller end. Cut off the remainder of the zip tie with the cutting pliers.

Now replace the two 10mm bolts that hold the hood open sensor

Now, finish up on the air box. See how the inlet air temperature sensor is too short? That is why you had to lengthen it. Put it in the grommet.

Here is what it looks like before connecting the air tube. See the difference in where the angles are pointed?
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6463.jpg

Re-connect the MAF plug.

Re-connect, the emissions hoses the opposite way you took them off. The one closest to the TB (throttle body) will be tough.

Mess with the silicone hose from air tube to TB. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE NO VACUUM LEAKS!, tighten the clamps snugly with the 5/16" socket or nut driver.

Get your air filter on inside. This will require a little muscle too. Tighten the clamp snugly with the 5/16" socket or nut driver.

You will have to mess with that configuration quite a bit in order for it to seal properly
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h27/soccerbrace/IMG_6462.jpg

Put the lid back on. If you have a body lift, the filter will hit the lid.

This is optional, but I put a bead of silicone RTV around the lid to seal it from the elements.

You are done!