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NissanNut
03-28-2007, 03:27 PM
OK I need to learn something new. I need to weld my link mounts to the dana 44 housing.

I have tried to read up on it. But all I read is use a nickel rod and preheat cool etc. I need more details.

I have been reading about the THREE different nickel rods from lincoln.

Choosing electrodes for welding cast iron typically comes down to three things: cost, machine-ability, and whether the weld is single or multiple pass.

Softweld 99 Ni (AWS class ENi-CI) is a nominally 99% Nickel electrode. Nickel is expensive, and so, therefore, is this premium electrode. The electrode will deposit welds that are machine-able, an important consideration when the casting is to be machined after welding. Repairs made with Softweld 99 Ni are often single pass welds with high admixture. Even with high admixture, the weld deposit will remain machine-able. It works best on castings with low or medium phosphorous contents.

Softweld 55 Ni (AWS class ENiFe-CI)is a nominally 55% Nickel electrode. The lower Nickel content makes this electrode more economical than Softweld 99 Ni. Weld deposits are usually machine-able, but under conditions of high admixture, the welds can become hard and difficult to machine. It is often used for repairing castings with heavy or thick sections. As compared to Softweld 99 Ni, welds made with 55 Ni are stronger and more ductile, and more tolerant of phosphorous in the casting. It also has a lower coefficient of expansion than 99 Ni, resulting in fewer fusion line cracks.

Ferroweld (AWS class ESt) is a lower cost, steel electrode. The weld deposits are hard, and are not machine-able, but can be finished by grinding. This is the lowest cost electrode for welding cast iron, and the electrode has a very user-friendly arc. It can tolerate welding on castings that cannot be completely cleaned before welding. Ferroweld deposits will rust, just like cast iron. This may be important when repairing cast iron parts such as exhaust manifolds on antique cars.


I like the idea of the ferroweld because I dont think I have to preheat or clean . :D

What have You guys done?

I have also considered muggyweld.com rods.

ChefTyler
03-28-2007, 04:18 PM
All I know about welding to cast is what Ryan has taught me on his MIG (assuming you have a stick welder?): use CO2 instead of Argon, first pass fairly quickly with low amps to pre-heat, then second pass throw the amps at it, then let the bugger cool in the garage/shop with the windows closed, no fan, and let the bugger cool at it's own pace.

Packman5280
03-28-2007, 04:30 PM
pretty sure it is cast steel, not iron. other than that, i let ryan weld mine. there is a thread on N4W right now,
http://nissan4wheelers.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/885603133/m/31310788931/r/16210098931#16210098931

NissanNut
03-28-2007, 06:51 PM
I bought a AC225 today because I only have a flux core wire feed welder. I could convert to MIG. But I prefer flux core.

I want to do the non pre heat way. Not sure on which nickel rod to use.

NissanNut
03-28-2007, 09:05 PM
If its cast steel, then can weld as normal mild steel from what I have read.

Jeep07
03-28-2007, 10:14 PM
I welded the brackets on boulder crushers D60 and part of one bracket had to go over the cast diff. I pre heated with a torch and used a bi metal rod (But it was pretty much just a nickle rod) on my stick welder. . Anyway the weld characteristics were a little different from mild steel but it wasn't too bad to do.

I didn't post heat it.

Just get the rods and go for it. You can always cut it off and grind it back down and try again.
whats why i like working metal instead of wood.

;)

theking
03-28-2007, 10:23 PM
The little fins that broke off my bro's axle look like gray cast to me. We welded the crap out of the bracket on the top of my diff and it didn't crack. It would be nice to try that muggyweld rod just to be safe. But, if you're just welding your lower link on that thick part of the cast i would just mig weld as usual.

NissanNut
03-29-2007, 07:27 AM
The little fins that broke off my bro's axle look like gray cast to me. We welded the crap out of the bracket on the top of my diff and it didn't crack. It would be nice to try that muggyweld rod just to be safe. But, if you're just welding your lower link on that thick part of the cast i would just mig weld as usual.

Very cool. Yeah I just have half a bracket on the cast part. I dont have MIG. Is flux core ok to use? I bought some 7018 rods for this.

Packman5280
03-29-2007, 09:00 AM
posted on CO4x4
http://www.colorado4x4.org/vbb/showthread.php?t=91858

NissanNut
03-29-2007, 10:44 AM
posted on CO4x4
http://www.colorado4x4.org/vbb/showthread.php?t=91858

Thats funny. What is the H233b 3rd? Just curious right now.

Crawln79bronco
03-29-2007, 10:46 AM
Most housings are not cast iron the are forged steel and can be welded with any means of welding (stick, mig, tig) however to weld cast iron you have to use a oven and keep the part you are welding at at arond 400 to 500 degrees and yes use a cast iron rod (nickle rod is a surface fix that will break with any amount of force). Its a real pain cause you weld a bit then put it back in the oven and repeat. After you are all done you have to cool it slowly in an oven and hope it dosn't crack And yes flux core wire in a mig works fine on forged steel.

Packman5280
03-29-2007, 12:24 PM
yeah barry, just saw the new post, condtradicting the first. who to believe?

NissanNut
03-29-2007, 12:51 PM
I will test it out when I need to. I will try regular flux and see what happens. I believe it is cast steel. Just like the C's.

Packman5280
03-29-2007, 01:36 PM
now they're saying nodular iron. good times.

NissanNut
03-29-2007, 02:23 PM
now they're saying nodular iron. good times.

:roflmao: :roflmao: Its funny how everyone has a different opinion on stuff. Almost like the auto/manual tranny thing.

I bet if two people called Dana and asked. You would get two different answers.:laughing: